At times, residents of our fair region like to think of "greater" Cincinnati as something of an amalgamated, urban fabric, a "we're in this together" Tri-State juggernaut of economic strength and regional harmony. As so many visitors like to point out, our airport is in Kentucky…and "yeah, we're okay with that." Then again, just as Cincinnati is made up of a diverse and oftentimes at- odds crazy-quilt of 52 neighborhoods, the greater region itself is also incredibly diverse in its culture, people, and its ethos.
Take Newport for example. Many Cincinistas regard Newport as the flashy movie and 'eatertainment' venue known as the Levee, the Hofbrauhaus and, to a lesser extent, the wealth of nearby historic, renovated residential neighborhoods in the
East Row Historic District. However, take a stroll down Monmouth Street,
Newport's historic main drag, and you'll meander through a jumbled timeline of the colorful city's past, present and future, oftentimes jarringly juxtaposed. Although just a few blocks from the carnivale buzz of the Levee and within walking distance of downtown Cincinnati, it sometimes feels, as one walking companion noted, like a "whole different world."
In the 1860's, Newport's initial development was spurred by the river, with clusters of factories and shops along the riverfront. The Cincinnati & Lexington Railroad ran along Saratoga Street, servicing the larger factories on the river, as well as the working class neighborhood on Saratoga and the more affluent residents immediately to the east. Just west of Saratoga is Monmouth Street, the city's primary link to the south. At the time most of the retail was divided between York and Monmouth Streets, but in the late 1880's several prominent retailers, H. Eilerman clothiers and Louis Marx Furniture, opened stores on Monmouth, and the die was cast. In the 1920's both Woolworth's and Kresge's, the two major chains in Newport at the time, located their stores on Monmouth. In addition, while banks were concentrated on York, fifteen of Newport's twenty-seven building and loans were located on Monmouth.
Sauntering down the street near 6th you will immediately encounter a vestige of Newport's oft-remarked "colorful" past. The hand-painted, sign (ladder?) for the
Northern Kentucky Gambling Museum draws you in, in a sort of a "what is that place?" kind of vibe - not unlike the time I stumbled upon a bizarre outside artist/preacher/space traveler in the rural roads of Georgia, it's one of those pieces of local color that adds to the otherworldly aspects of the overall experience. The museum is the do-it-yourself brainchild of proprietor, amiable tour guide and de facto curator, Larry Trapp. It is typically open from 11am to 4pm during the week and on Saturdays with a modest "admition" price of $5. In previous incarnations, it was also known as the "Horseshoe Bar," the "Frontier Bar" and the "Mustang Club." As Trapp puts it, it was the "roughest bar in Newport," motioning to the three crisscrossed yellow tape "X"s he placed on the floor to indicate where patrons were shot. It was also, as he notes, a "cat house," with a bookie operating in the basement. Nowadays it is a storehouse for Trapp's memorabilia from Newport's gambling heyday. Full of photos, articles, swizzle sticks, menus and slot machines (among other less describable paraphernalia), the museum takes a wistful gaze at the salad days of joints like Glen Schmidt's (now the Syndicate), the Lookout House, the Latin Quarter and the He-Di-Ho House.
In the 1940's, despite the presence of Chicago mobs opening casinos on Monmouth, the established businesses that characterized the street for the previous 50 years continued to thrive. As control shifted to the Cleveland mob in the 1950's, the strip started to decline as far as the traditional merchants were concerned, shifting to more low-rent and discount style tenants in efforts to continue occupancy. During the 1960's, the decline continued, and although reformers drove out the mob in the early 1960's, Monmouth Street, like many former urban centers of the time, found its fortunes declining in the face of an exploding suburban population.
Currently, however, you will find something more akin to a mixed bag of old and new. While yes, you will pass the (ahem) "Brass District" featuring the two remaining "show bars," the positively David Lynch-ian Brass Ass and the less flashy Brass Bull, you will also pass thriving immigrant-fueled commercial businesses such as
La Mexicana, one of the best authentic Mexican restaurants in the area, replete with a well-stocked grocery in back. Nearby,
Reser Bicycle Outfitters is a sleek, modern and spacious bike shop which seemingly functions as the epicenter for many in the local biking community. For those on four (much smaller) wheels, the
Galaxie Skateshop offers the latest in skateboard needs. Walking further,
Rick Lohre Photography has an artfully renovated space, while Wiefit.com provides a chic "exercise and body-building studio."
While yes, you will find a few pawn shops, as well a knife store directly across the street from the gunsmith, it's this type of old and new, jarring juxtaposition melded with symbiotic symmetry (see, e.g. the "show bar" apparel store "Attitudes" located directly next to the "Brass Ass"), that gives the street its charm. Offering a little bit of something for everyone, where else can you get your vacuum repaired, take in a
Falcon Theater production at the Monmouth Theater, pick up a new uniform at Albert's Uniform Shop and grab a coffee at
Mammoth Cafe. Mixed into all of this are longtime butchers and a baker, assorted watering holes, and restaurant standbys such as the
Pepper Pod and
Dixie Chili, all of which coalesce into a diverse and unique little urban strip.
Eleven new businesses have opened on Monmouth in the past year or so, including a search engine optimization firm, internet marketing, an art gallery and a Pilate's studio. These co-exist peacefully with places like
Richards, a truly indescribable junk/retail/whatnot shop with tanning rooms on the third floor, selling everything from used Chinese throwing stars to one bald tire to energy drinks, all stacked in a chaotic clutter from floor to ceiling. With its mix of old and new, current trends and faded past, Monmouth seems to be a truly unique world unto itself. As Gambling Museum curator Larry Trapp likes to say, "We've got a little bit of everything here."
We could not agree more.
Photography by Scott Beseler
Mammoth Cafe
The Brass Ass
The Gambling Museum
Torta at La Mexicana
Reser bicycle
Casey's sneek peak