Thanksgiving gathers people with different worldviews, lifestyles, and passions (don’t worry, this won’t be
that kind of article), so it only stands to reason that the modern holiday table would need to accommodate an increasingly broad array of dietary needs. Some are deliberate ethical choices, and others are necessitated by allergies. A generation ago, people with these food requirements had to either make their own and bring them to every occasion or pay a premium at a specialty store.
Now, local options exist. Whether somebody requires a dish with no animal-derived products, or a dessert made with no ingredients containing gluten, these specialty providers now offer gourmet products that can be picked up either directly from the vendor or sold wholesale through retailers.
Two specialty bakers describe how they’ve grown their business and evolved their process, with some tips on how to successfully navigate Thanksgiving with unique dietary needs.
Beyond Grain Bakery
By day, Jessica Stern-Enzi is a speech language pathologist for Cincinnati Public Schools. However, a lifetime of being a “passionate home baker and cook” eventually inspired her to establish Beyond Grain Bakery in 2018 as a side hustle, and having been diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes in 2018 steered her towards developing baked goods for those concerned with sugar intake.
“Working in public schools, having summers off provided time to experiment and perfect my recipes, and the diagnosis of diabetes was a blessing in disguise that helped me direct how I directed my business.”
In the first few years of Beyond Grain, Stern-Enzi steered her offerings towards ketogenic products, with an emphasis on no or minimal refined sugar with an emphasis on baking with coconut and almond flour and whey protein. After four years of developing tasty keto recipes with a limited repertoire of ingredients, she switched to grain-, gluten- and dairy-free pies, cakes, scones, and other pastries.
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Whether you’re craving a turtle cheesecake, a festive array of cookies, or tasty pastries, Jessica Stern-Enzi offers an eclectic array of goodies that could grace a holiday table.
“We lean heavily into seasonality with our baked goods,” she said. “We worked with pumpkin and apple with our fall pastries, and for the holidays, we will emphasize cranberries, chocolate, and peppermint to create holiday flavors. Rarely do we make the same thing twice.”
Beyond Grain goodies are sold at Urbana Café in East Walnut Hills and Pendleton, Sidewinder Coffee in Northside, Brown Bear in Over-the-Rhine, and Fulton Yards in the East End.
Stern-Enzi said that she typically requires three days of lead time to process direct orders. She will be on vacation for Thanksgiving week, so anyone interested in ordering must place an order (baked goods can be frozen) by the 19
th for pickup on the 22
nd at her Pendleton home. She no longer maintains a Beyond Grain website, but she is accessible through
Facebook,
Instagram, or by email at
[email protected].
Moondance Desserts
Having lived with gluten intolerance and growing tired of dealing with a dearth of affordable alternatives, Shelley Ritchie saw an opportunity to grow a business and founded Moondance Desserts in 2005.
“There was a lot of trial and error with trying out different flours, and we were able to create what’s now a proprietary blend that offers a balance of flavor and texture.”
The Norwood-based company began selling its products at Jungle Jim’s in Fairfield, and their immediate and decisive interest required “some thinking on my feet” and quickly ramping up production. She also had informational sessions with local celiac-disease support groups (celiac disease is an autoimmune disorder that causes damage to the small intestine when gluten is ingested) as well as presentations at the Columbus Children’s Hospital and the Cleveland Clinic, which also began carrying Moondance products.
Seasonally rotating scones are the centerpiece of its offerings, including cranberry-orange for the holiday season, as well as coffee cakes, cupcakes, and cookies. The company now sells at Fresh Market grocery stores in four states, Kroger in four states, and Whole Foods in 10 states, among other grocery chains in other regions.
“As gluten-free products have become more commonplace, we’ve maintained a high emphasis on quality and creating artisanal-quality products,” Shelley said. “With gluten-free products, it’s important to create recipes that contain plenty of moisture, so you don’t end up with a dried-out bread or pastry.”
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Seasonal cookies and scones are a staple of Moondance Desserts Norwood-based business.
She offers several pro tips to home bakers, and for making it through a gluten-free Thanksgiving: “Start with a pre-mixed gluten-free flour and use it in regular recipes instead of seeking off recipes that are specifically gluten-free. Quick breads such as pumpkin and banana bread are good places to start, because they’re naturally moist. Brownies are also a great gluten-free option because they’re moist and don’t require much flour.”
She continued, “For Thanksgiving, if you’re leaving your house, it’s probably important to bring your own food. People trying to accommodate you mean well, but they may not think of things like thoroughly washing knives or cleaning surfaces in between preparation so that your food isn’t exposed to gluten. If you’re going to a restaurant, call ahead and they will usually make a real effort to prepare something you can eat.”
Find a list of retailers and store locations that carry Moondance desserts at
moondancedesserts.com.