World travel served to you one bite at a time

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It’s a funny concept – like the catch-all term world music, “ethnic” food is a description that everyone understands but no one can easily explain. After all, what type of music isn’t world music? What kind of cuisine isn’t ethnic? Most would assume ethnic dining refers to foods from countries outside of ours … yet my boyfriend insists that “soul food” (another hard-to-define descriptor) should be on the list.

As with music, food is all relative. I spent the early years of my childhood living on the upper floor of a Chinese restaurant my family owned. Egg rolls and Moo Goo Gai Pan were as common to me as spaghetti and chicken soup to most other American kids. I grew up eating exotic produce like bitter melon and wood ears, unusual meats like squid and duck and slurping down red bean soup for dessert. So it’s quite possible that my sense of “ethnic” cuisine is skewed – my roommates always joke about my penchant for “weird” foods.

Trying to define ethnic food in Cincinnati, a city with residents who come from all over the globe, may be a futile effort. However, even though it may be hard to draw the lines between what does and does not qualify as ethnic cuisine (ambiguous foods like pizza and tacos can be argued for days), I can tell you where to find some good examples of it. The following is a guide to some of the best ethnic eateries in town – with the understanding that this list is completely subjective, incomplete and does not reflect the views of this publication, nor my roommates, who will probably crinkle their noses and tell you not to trust my “weird” palette.

If you enjoy exploring new restaurants, particularly ethnic ones, there is a local dining group you should definitely check out called Food Chain Cincinnati. This free group organizes dinners at various restaurants with the intention of sampling great food and making new friends.

Local Ethnic Cuisine Directory

Thai: Sort of a cross between Chinese and Indian food, Thai cooking involves lots of coconut milk, curry, lemongrass, ginger and basil. There are a few Thai restaurants in Hyde Park – my favorite is Green Papaya, 513-731-0107. Thai Express in Clifton is also great (take-out only), especially if you’re on a budget. 513-651-9000.

Indian: Be ready for lots of spices! Indian cuisine often includes a wide selection of curries and flat breads, preceded by wonderful (usually fried) appetizers accompanied by chutneys (sauces). There are tons of Indian restaurants in Clifton – my personal favorite is Apna on Ludlow. 513-861-6800.

Chinese: You haven’t had real Chinese food until you’ve had Chinese dim sum. The best place to get that locally was Pacific Moon on the Levee, but since they’ve closed (temporarily, the sign says), you can check out Uncle Yip’s in Evendale, where they serve it on the weekends. 513-733-8484.

Italian: Ferrari’s Little Italy in Madeira is quite popular. I haven’t been, but people keep telling me I should go. 513-272-2220.

German: Considering that Cincinnati has such a high population of German immigrants (or their descendants) you might be surprised that there aren’t more German restaurants. Maybe we get it out of our systems with multiple Oktoberfests and Goetta Fests. In any case, my boyfriend votes for Wertheim’s in Covington. 859-261-1233. I also have to plug the future food (coming soon) at Grammer’s in Over-the Rhine – it’s a great place to enjoy a beer in a very unique setting (heavy German themes) and support a historic Cincinnati business. 513-421-8300

Ethiopian: I love Ethiopian food! Often consisting of stewed meats or vegetables served on thin, spongy bread called injera, Ethiopian cuisine is light, flavorful and nutritious. The only Ethiopian restaurant I know of is Emanu in Pleasant Ridge and has been consistently excellent throughout the years I’ve been dropping in. Just FYI, the meal is meant to be eaten with your fingers, and traditionally, people share off of one plate. Don’t forget to try the Ethiopian tea and/or coffee. 513-351-7686

Japanese: You can do sushi (raw fish and rice rolls) or hibachi (food grilled at your table) – both are great (and somewhat pricey). For sushi: Beluga in Hyde Park. 513-533-4444. For hibachi: Fuji Steak House. 859-746-8180.

Greek: Who doesn’t love gyros (or vegetarian gyros)? My new favorite Greek place is Greek to Me at the Point in Covington. 859-291-4976.

Middle Eastern (Moroccan/Iranian): One of downtown’s best-kept secrets, you can get a falafel sandwich, a drink and fries for $6 at Diner on Elm. 513-421-0049.

Middle Eastern (Lebanese): Floyd’s in Clifton is famous for its rotisserie chicken, as well as its great Lebanese fare. Make sure to try the sides, such as their house lentil soup and the butter beans. 513-221-2434.

Indonesian: A rare treat, Indonesian food is something you just have to experience in order to describe. In Cincinnati, Gajah Wong is the place to do so. 513-591-3935.

Korean: Characterized by strong and sometimes sour flavors, Korean food is well worth a try. Go to Korean Riverside Restaurant and make sure to order lots of ban chan (sides) and green tea. 859-291-1484.